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How to Repair a Damaged Carrying Beam | Ask This Old House
Ask This Old House general contractor Tom Silva teaches a homeowner how to repair some structural problems in his home.
SUBSCRIBE to This Old House:
Time: 6-7 hours
Cost: $100
Skill Level: Expert
Tools List for Repairing a Damaged Carrying Beam:
– Bottle jack [
– Grinder [
– Large pipe cutter [
– Cold chisel [
– Hammer [
– Level [
– Drill [
– Pry bar [
Shopping List:
– Temporary post [
– Steel lally column [
– Wood screws [
– Masonry screws [
– Angle iron [
Steps:
1. Use the jack and the temporary post to support the structure before removing any posts.
2. Remove the old lally column with a grinder.
3. Measure and mark the replacement column and cut it to size with the large pipe cutter.
4. Smooth out the bottom of the new cut with a hammer and cold chisel.
5. Put the post in place on metal plates and slowly remove the temporary post. Check the post for level before putting the full weight of the house back on it.
6. Screw the metal plates to the beam and to the floor with the appropriate screws.
7. To repair damaged beams, locate a local welder or metal shop and request angle iron, cut and drilled to the length of the beam being repaired.
8. Remove any pipes, wires, etc. currently going through the beam. Be sure to turn off the water, power, etc. before doing so.
9. Pry the joist hanger away from the beam.
10. Mount the angle iron on the jack and the temporary post. Get the angle iron in place and slowly raise the jack until the angle iron is wedged up against the damaged beam.
11. Screw the angle iron into the beam and remove the temporary post.
12. Slide any pipes or wires previously removed back through the beam and turn the water and power back on.
Resources:
Lally columns and the lumber used for the bridging can be found at the local home center or the local lumberyard.
Steel angle iron can be ordered to size and is sold at metal or welding shops.
Special assistance with this project was provided by Boston Welding (
In the workshop, Tom shared some basic rules for cutting and notching joists and rafters. For cutting holes, a hole can be no more than ⅓ the depth of the structure and cannot be within 2″” of an edge.
For notches, the maximum notch depth is ½ the depth of the structure and no notches can be made in the middle ⅓ of the span.
About Ask This Old House TV:
Homeowners have a virtual truckload of questions for us on smaller projects, and we’re ready to answer. Ask This Old House solves the steady stream of home improvement problems faced by our viewers—and we make house calls! Ask This Old House features some familiar faces from This Old House, including Kevin O’Connor, general contractor Tom Silva, plumbing and heating expert Richard Trethewey, and landscape contractor Roger Cook.
Follow This Old House and Ask This Old House:
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How to Repair a Damaged Carrying Beam | Ask This Old House
how to find older posts on instagram
Ask This Old House general contractor Tom Silva teaches a homeowner how to repair some structural problems in his home.
SUBSCRIBE to This Old House:
Time: 6-7 hours
Cost: $100
Skill Level: Expert
Tools List for Repairing a Damaged Carrying Beam:
– Bottle jack [
– Grinder [
– Large pipe cutter [
– Cold chisel [
– Hammer [
– Level [
– Drill [
– Pry bar [
Shopping List:
– Temporary post [
– Steel lally column [
– Wood screws [
– Masonry screws [
– Angle iron [
Steps:
1. Use the jack and the temporary post to support the structure before removing any posts.
2. Remove the old lally column with a grinder.
3. Measure and mark the replacement column and cut it to size with the large pipe cutter.
4. Smooth out the bottom of the new cut with a hammer and cold chisel.
5. Put the post in place on metal plates and slowly remove the temporary post. Check the post for level before putting the full weight of the house back on it.
6. Screw the metal plates to the beam and to the floor with the appropriate screws.
7. To repair damaged beams, locate a local welder or metal shop and request angle iron, cut and drilled to the length of the beam being repaired.
8. Remove any pipes, wires, etc. currently going through the beam. Be sure to turn off the water, power, etc. before doing so.
9. Pry the joist hanger away from the beam.
10. Mount the angle iron on the jack and the temporary post. Get the angle iron in place and slowly raise the jack until the angle iron is wedged up against the damaged beam.
11. Screw the angle iron into the beam and remove the temporary post.
12. Slide any pipes or wires previously removed back through the beam and turn the water and power back on.
Resources:
Lally columns and the lumber used for the bridging can be found at the local home center or the local lumberyard.
Steel angle iron can be ordered to size and is sold at metal or welding shops.
Special assistance with this project was provided by Boston Welding (
In the workshop, Tom shared some basic rules for cutting and notching joists and rafters. For cutting holes, a hole can be no more than ⅓ the depth of the structure and cannot be within 2″” of an edge.
For notches, the maximum notch depth is ½ the depth of the structure and no notches can be made in the middle ⅓ of the span.
About Ask This Old House TV:
Homeowners have a virtual truckload of questions for us on smaller projects, and we’re ready to answer. Ask This Old House solves the steady stream of home improvement problems faced by our viewers—and we make house calls! Ask This Old House features some familiar faces from This Old House, including Kevin O’Connor, general contractor Tom Silva, plumbing and heating expert Richard Trethewey, and landscape contractor Roger Cook.
Follow This Old House and Ask This Old House:
Facebook:
Twitter:
Pinterest:
Instagram:
Tumblr:
For more on This Old House and Ask This Old House, visit us at:
How to Repair a Damaged Carrying Beam | Ask This Old House
27 Comments
That’s white man knowledge right there
you overtightened that lag screw
Can you tell me where I could order one of Lolli columns with the Concrete in it
I'll send the bill for $13, 999.53 in the mail tomorrow.
All these fools in the comments with their Facobook degrees 😂😅😂😅😅
Shark bite fittings suck!!! That don’t seal worth crap I’ll solder all my copper thanks pex pipe is garbage as well it’s just a cheap skates way of doing it to lazy to fit pipes through walls and solder then seal it all with a crappy fitting that will eventually leak to many times have I seen it happen copper and silver solder only for me
This video is non compliant with earthquake movement. It is completely wrong to do this the way shown here. Atleast 10 mistakes. Read California construction codes. These also help in tornado and hurricane movement
I am trying to find out, are you allowed to use the Intellijack / smartjack / telescopic post as the main support where the I beams are joined? Is that allowed by code in general?
this fix is crappy. he strips every screw out.
This beam repair is limited by the strength of the fasteners attaching the L-steel to the carrying beam. I think those 3/8 screws are sufficient, but maybe. A through bolt can be put in tension so is inherently stronger against lateral force at a given diameter. That being said, the beam itself still had a given amount of strength and the L steel is just adding capacity for that single break in the beam. Combined with the effects of leverage due to their location at distance from the break in the beam, the multiple 3/8 inch screws are probably plenty strong. In any case the house wasn't falling down in the first place.
Did he ever weld the replacement column to the top and bottom flanges?
"I'm gonna let the house down just a little"
Wow, this really was a serious concern.
I don't understand why drills have to sound like that
BudLight the drag queen of beers
50k. ?
Copper pipe on a steel beam? Not good!
So how do the floor joists connect to the main carrying beam now that the angle iron is there?
Why don't they just use a steel I beam for the main carrying beam?
Toms the best 👍🏼
They saved the house like engineers. But will flood it now like plumbers.
RIchard would be side eying Tommy for using those sharkbite connectors
That’s it, if Tom uses push n’ connects/shark bites then I have faith then 😂
Thank you! I have been stressing on how to do mine
You don't need an engineer and city permits to do this?
I was under the impression that the Lally column has to rest on a footing/concrete pad, that’s deeper than the basement floor, and not just rest on the basement floor itself That’s the way it is in my house.
Great job I also learned a lot
A couple thing that are very important.
1) Cap the temp post or use plate to keep the bottle jack from splitting the post right up the middle causing catastrophic failure of the temp support while under load.
2) This type of fix requires a structural engineer to design, it is not in the code book. A structural engineer would require at least 1/2" through bolts for this assembly. It is only accommodating the tension at the bottom of the beam and transferring the upper beams compression through moment at the Fastners.
3) The new column needs to be connected to the foundation below and the beam above to prevent uplift per code (in case of severe weather/high winds)
4) Those water pipe connections are considered mechanical and must be accessible (not covered with drywall) and you must clean (sanding or brushing) the pipe first, plus debur the pipe according to the manufactures requirements and code. The copper pipe must not make contact with the steel, this is required by code due to corrosion that occurs when differential metal make contact. This pipe will corrode and eventually leak.